Monday, August 30, 2010

Northern Cally





Half Moon Bay - home of the most notorious wave in the world "MAVERICS" had a cruisy fishing village vibe with rolling foggy hills dropping into a merky errie ocean. We dropped in to Jeff Clarkes surf shop - the local legend who cheated death out there for 15 years by himself after never being able to convince anyone to join him. The cliffs overlooking Maverics were scattered with memorial crosses honoring surfers who lost their lives out there. There were probably around 15. We stood silently in the cold salty breeze reading the names of people trying to picture the insane size and power of the waves on those days...

Sunday, August 29, 2010


Hollister Ranch

Once owned by the Hollister family - this collection of ranches hugs the raw desolate coastline north of Santa Barbara. We gained exclusive access and surfed amongst seals and thick kelp with views of arid bare mountains stretching as far as we could see. After an hour or so I couldn't feel my fingers or toes and was getting ice cream headaches ( not to mention shark paranoia ). We retired to a grassy knoll above the beach to an all American BBQ of burgers and Gram Cracker Smors.