Thursday, June 21, 2012




El jefe - Abraham - good bloke!  



West Coast Raglan meets the River city

Lima peripheries

This lad secretly loves his job

Aw hows that right?
Caballeros - across the bay from Senoritas - such a fun right, really good inside bowl, couldn't really capture it with the pfotos though.


Super fun Pulpos - on a low and outgoing tide - hits the inside bank and dishes up sick grinding barrels - we scored it a few times by ourselves - so good!


Matt - wilsoned ping pong

se llama "minima" jaja

Crew at Bravo

Lomo Saltado y Pilsen Calloa - favorite



Some nice Lima styles





Señoritas - surfed this pumping by myself on the last day!



One of the many little reef set ups

Lonely right reef



Thursday, June 14, 2012

Class



The buses are real dilapidated, noisy, hectic, dangerous as hell and kind of funny
One of the kids playing a song for the birthday boy
Cruisy lefts on a small day


Papa relleno (30 cents) from the tuckshop - fried potato with chicken inside - deliiiiish!


Reflecting on my time in Huanchaco, is like remembering a really good movie. My experience seemed surreal and one I'll never forget. It is a little town on the coast with a super consistent and fun wave rite on its' doorstep, the streets are lined with cheap and delicious eateries and there is a contagious relaxed vibe. The town has a perfect balance of chilled locals, domestic holiday goers and short and long term tourists. I managed to make some really good mates at my hostel - as there was a crew of travelers living or working there for than 2 or so months.





My daily routine would consist of getting up before dawn, smashing a quick breaky with another teacher who worked in Trujillo at a different school, walk out to the beach and hail a Trujillo bound convi (converted vans with psycho drivers that end up like sardine tins full of people). I got pretty used to the weaving, sudden slamming of breaks and near misses to the point where I actually sometimes drifted off on the way in. I would then jump of, pay around 40 cents for a freshly squeezed orange juice - where they use the old level presses, then head into the school grounds.
$1.80
View from the church on the hill


View from the roof at Mcallums
I had hundreds of encounters with everyday working Peruvians in Trujillo ( the 3rd largest city in Peru and a lot less touristy then Huanchaco, and I was always impressed by their friendliness. I witnessed a lot of grinding poverty and unfairness - though by and large the people seemed to be impressively spirited and well- natured.

Roxana -one of the teachers I worked with

Catching the bus back from school
My favorite wave in Huanchaco - mind surf away...


At first it was pretty intimidating being the only gringo surrounded by all the high school kids though by the end I was swaggering confidently from class to class giving the slap and pound to kids cruising by. The classes became easier and easier and I could teach classes that were fun and improvise by pretty much acting and making them laugh (while making sure they were learning something too).



Groms



The street I walk down to go to work - surf - eat...

Another epic Huanchaco sunset
In the early afternoons I would jump off the bus and step straight into my special secret lunch spot. For 5 soles ($1.80) I would eat Ceviche for an entre, Lomo Saltado for a main and a big class of passion and pine juice - epic! Then I would have the whole afternoon (it never was blown out once!) to surf and hangout with the lads. I also have to give Mcallums 2 a mention, such a cool hostel, great people and the best place to have a siesta in the hammocks!

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Peru trippin



 Fun grinders

 Graff por el mundo

 Creepy boarded up fishermens abode

 Swingin surf check

During my amazing 2 months in the little slice of Peruvian Paradise they call Huanchaco - I managed to sneak a few northern trips to the tantalizing lefts of Chicama, Pacasmayo and Lobitos. One long weekend I jumped on an overnight bus up to Mancora, then weaved to Lobitos from there. The bus ride was a bit of a dud, the dude in front of me jammed his seat back crushing my knees, and I had a big juicy burger eating Señora spilling onto "my side". I reminded myself - this is why I travel and managed to knock off with dreams of perfect reeling lefts. 
 

 







After passing through the busy port town of Telara, and witnessing some serious poverty - thanks to trusty old military governments - I finally arrived at the place I've been wanting to surf for ages! Just as I was wondering where I was going to camp - I started talking to a cool Peruvian lad who'd just been surfing in the Galapagos Islands. We hit it off well so he invited me to crash in his house for free! Quique is a conservationist from Lima who kind of took over this previously abandoned, beautiful old weather board house - who had been been owned by British and American families in the oil boom, then a military family, then fishermen and now a surfer!


Quique was a legend and had decked out his house with trippy fabric and art from all over South America. We would have coffee every morning and go and surf super fun lefts at dawn before the inevitable crowds descended upon us.
Quique, myself and one of the cat hounding hairless Peruvian dogs



Baron and poverty stricken outskirts of Telara





Condors on the verandah