Thursday, October 7, 2010



After being tipped off about a semi secret right hander, we were on a boat through aligator infested mangrove canals then whisked on to a ¨collectivo¨ (the back of a ute) through cactus fields for half an hour and into a breezy little establishment where almost every structure was made entirely from palm trees. You can see our little set up on the 2nd story - no locks, walls or stairs - no worries!


Down the long windy road from Pascuales through Rio Nexpa and into Chicahua and Puerto, we picked up 2 crazy Isrealites for the ride. Lior and Shai have provided us with heaps of fun and stupid ways to get a laugh and have double our stoke to surf. These photoes are from Shai Kedar´s collection.

Tuesday, October 5, 2010






















Olas de Mexico





The greatest day of my life? I ponder as I swing in the rasta coloured hammock looking out over palm trees into the vast Pacific sunset. I could not believe a paradise like this still existed - a surfers dream of perfect deserted waves in lucid warm water, delicious food, beautiful locals and 3.50 a night accomodation. I was reflecting on the morning we had - just our mates yeewing us into the oil slick glassed off walls, making the drop and setting a high line before getting catapolted through the endless sections, fully focused locked deep inside cavernous turquoise vortexes exploding along the shallows banks....the almond eye often deceptively impossible to reach...then the wave tires and sneezes you out into the open with dangourously high levels of seritone making for the biggest yyeeeeooooowwwwwww....